![]() ![]() ![]() Now pressing the double marquee box a second marquee is displayed offset to the first that can be moved to the next frame. The mouse cursor becomes a Hand when inside the marquee box, clicking and holding the box can be positioned as desired, releasing the click and positioning the cursor over the edge of the box until the cursor turns to a double headed arrow then clicking and holding that edge can be adjusted as desired. Pressing the Marquee box I get a "marching ants" box that can be positioned and adjusted. Same truncated thumbnail garbage that the OP asks about. My basic configuration for evaluation of the negative ( I sometimes select NO Color Correction)Ĭlosing the configuration box and pressing the Preview button I get Epson scan runs the same on both scanners and computers. I have a V700 and V500 that I run on Windows 10 computers. I've spent hours in the past trying to find a fix to the 120 problem but it beats me. This is not because the frame is under or over exposed, the Epson just takes a dislike to a photo sometimes! The single exception is it sometimes drops one frame from a double strip, scanning 11 not 12 frames. It scans 35mm fine so long as the first frame doesn't have leader included. Sometimes I can "trick" it by putting only one negative or slide in the holder, but that's time consuming and doesn't offer the best plane flatness with one end of the strip hanging. I can't find a way of telling it I want both 6圆 120 negatives scanned fully as seen in the film holder. Those do not solve the problem which has been there since I bought the scanner seven years ago, and have been the case with three different computers. Very occasionally after a long scanning session the software "forgets" where it is and freezes up. I've also removed and updated software a few times. Not representative of the conditions of most family film photography.įamilies today are really lucky to have smartphone cameras with powerful automatic focus, exposure, color balancing, and in some cases image stabilization, producing impressively sharp and detailed photos compared to the film era.Click to expand.I'm aware of the frame registration guides in the plastic holder, and how they determine negative size. Yeah, we saw some tack-sharp photos from film, but they were always the test shots in the photo magazines taken with a film SLR on a tripod with an expensive lens and a remote shutter release cable, with lots of time to adjust focus. As a result, many handheld film photos not taken in direct sunlight/flash probably have some motion blur, even if focus was perfect. Long shutter speed plus handheld camera means motion blur…and back then there was no image stabilization in lens or body to compensate.If the lens was also slow, that plus slow film speed meant long shutter speed.Film speeds were slow, usually ISO 100–400.I had an autofocus point-and-shoot, but that was in the 1990s. Either way, it was easy for focus to be imprecise. Many family cameras in the late 20th century were either fixed focus or manual focus.Looking at film scans I often remind myself that their sharpness should not be judged by today’s digital standards. We never looked at film that closely except with a loupe or a big enlargement. They probably look fine at the usual sizes for family prints and enlargements. Click to expand.Yes, I am thinking maybe the examples shown are probably typical and acceptable focus for 1980s film, if they’re at 1:1 magnification.
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